Just days away from the very first Indie Craft Parade Makers Summit–we can hardly contain ourselves. Attendees, get ready! This is going to be an awesome day of learning and making.

So today is just a teaser of a few things that will be present at either The Makers Summit or The Best Craft Party Ever!

Oodles of monkey hats provided by MailChimp.

A custom printed photo backdrop and table runners from Spoonflower!

We LOVE our sponsors!

A single edition tee shirt, designed by the artist at Parachute Clothing!

Can’t wait to see the rest? We can’t wait to show you. See everyone on Saturday!

With The Makers Summit just over a week away, we’re busy putting the final touches on what’s going to be an amazing event. We can’t wait to bring our attendees, speakers, experts, and sponsors together. One sponsor/speaker we’re particularly eager to meet is Grace Kang of Pink Olive. She is one talented lady who will be sharing her wealth of insight into the world of retail.

From the Pink Olive website:
Grace’s success is the culmination of over 10 years as a retail buyer and consultant in the fashion industry. After graduating from Cornell University, Grace quickly moved up the corporate ladder and became a successful buyer at Bloomingdale’s where she was awarded “Buyer of the Year.” Her accomplishments continued on to Saks.com and Barney’s New York which allowed her to excel and think outside the box in both the business and creative sense of the word. 

With success in hand, it was time for her to launch PinkOlive.com, an online emporium with a peculiar name inspired by her niece’s favorite things—the color pink and olives….Grace opened her first brick and mortar store in East Village, Manhattan in May 2007 followed by her second location in Park Slope, Brooklyn in March 2008. Aside from running her two boutiques and website, Grace Kang consults with fashion designers, small business owners and startups entering the retail world.

In addition to the Pink Olive stores, Grace also curates Olive Box, a monthly subscription service for paper lovers. Olive Box members will receive a specially picked and packaged collection of paper goods from around the craftisphere. Additionally, she regularly coaches budding small businesses through her service Retail Recipes. She answers important questions like: Do you have a great product, but you’re not sure how to get it into retail stores? or: Do you ever wonder what the store buyers are looking for and how you can make your products more appealing to them?

At The Makers Summit Grace will be an invaluable asset to our attendees looking to push their products way beyond their own front doors.

Welcome back to the upholstery tutorial from our friends at Shop-Keep!  Last time Mandy Blankenship shared the beginning of her long but rewarding journey to recovering her lovely chevron chair.

If you missed part one of the story, please check it out here.

Now to continue…

7) Sewing and Stapling

All your hard work laying out fabric, thinking about which direction the motif should run, and planning how the seams will meet pays off when you begin sewing the pattern pieces together. I began by sewing the decking to the lip fabric, an odd rectangle piece of chevron that has mitered corners. Decking fabric is usually not the same as your pattern fabric but of a similar weight, so choose wisely. Once I joined the grey decking fabric to the lip, I returned to my chair frame to staple them in place. Staple the bottom of the lip to the front bottom of the chair, starting in the center and evenly distributing your fabric over the batting to the right and left, a little bit at a time. Staples should be a couple inches apart–not super close, but not really far apart. When stapling fabric, don’t stretch it too tightly, or it will weaken and possibly tear. Finesse it, be gentle but firm. The fabric will go where you tell it to, but don’t be harsh with it.

After stapling the fabric to the bottom of the lip, pull the top of the decking fabric underneath the chair back and staple to the chair base, starting at the middle and working your way to either side. Next reach the sides of decking fabric underneath arms and staple them to sides of the chair base. You may need to cut slits near the base of chair arms so that the fabric stays smooth and doesn’t fold awkwardly. Use a curved needle and upholstery thread to anchor the decking to the springs below, near where decking fabric is sewn to patterned fabric.

Now it’s time to sew the welting. Join 1 1/2 inch wide strips to one another to form one really long strip of fabric the same way you would make bias tape (but ignoring all the double-folding). Then wrap the strip of fabric evenly around cording, place under cording foot on the sewing machine, and sew in place. The cording foot on the industrial machine is so dreamy to use.

To make the arm covers for the Chevron Chair, I placed the welting on top of the center top strip of arm fabric with all the raw edges facing the same direction, then pinned it in place. After pinning, I basted the welting in place to keep it from moving around during sewing. If you omit basting, you MUST remove each needle before it goes under the sewing machine foot. I have broken way too many sewing machine needles by not doing this. Basting the welting in place is really the best method, looks the most tailored, and is how all the couturiers make garments of old. Sew welting to arm top fabric, then sandwich the welting in between the right side of the next piece of arm fabric to be attached, pin and baste; then sew from the side you haven’t sewn on yet (this ensures the welting will be evenly placed between layers). Fit arm fabric over chair arms, remembering to smooth the batting. Staple inside arm fabric on top of where you placed the sides of the decking fabric. Before I stapled the outside arms in place, I made sure to place dust cover fabric over the outside arms in order to have a surface on which to place outside arm batting. Staple both in place, fluff batting, then cover with outside arm fabric.

I used cardboard tacking strip to give a nice, sharp edge to the welting and arm fabric that reaches down the side of the chair frame past where the arm ends. Sneak cardboard tacking strip underneath the arm fabric, and carefully staple in place. Staple outside arm fabric underneath chair frame at the sides. Lastly, staple the back of the arm covers to the back of the chair frame.

 

8) Reuse Old or Cut New Foam

For several decades now foam has replaced traditional stuffing like horsehair in making chairs cushy to sit on. I’m really not a fan of petroleum based products (one of the many reasons I hate polyester), but it’s increasingly unavoidable. You can purchase soy foam, but it’s only about 20% soy-based with the rest of the mix produced like polyfoam. The healthiest, least toxic chemical-laden option is to use natural latex rubber foam made from the rubber tree. But in terms of cost-effectiveness, reusing your chair’s old foam is the winner. Again, if your chair came from a smoker’s house or has cat pee on it, look into buying new foam; otherwise reusing the original stuff is the cheapest and greenest option.

I reused all my old foam and batting for the Chevron Chair cushion, arms, and inside back. If you purchase new foam, cut it into the same shapes as the old, using an electric turkey carver. Sounds crazy, but it works. Staple it in place, and cover with batting.

9) Sewing the Deck Cushion

Sewing the deck cushion is just like making the arm covers. Pin and baste welting to the top and bottom pieces first, then sew in place. Reuse your old zipper, if possible, for the middle piece of the cushion cover. Sew the zipper to the middle piece, then pin and baste the middle piece to the top and bottom of cover. Remember to sandwich the welting between right sides of the cushion cover, this time sewing from the side you haven’t done yet. With the cushion foam wrapped in batting, stuff it into the new cushion cover and zip closed. You can sew a simple muslin cover to go over the foam and batting first, and then put that inside the upholstery fabric cover, but that is an extra step you may not want to take. I didn’t.

 

10) The Inside Back

Completing the inside back of the chair is one of the easiest parts to do because it requires no sewing. Place chevron fabric right side up (because you marked which direction that was) over inside back foam and batting, making sure the batting looks smooth. Staple in place at top and bottom first (on the backside of the frame), working from the center to the right and left. Distribute taut fabric evenly. Then draw the fabric through the left side and right side and staple the same way. This was when I noticed where all the change from your pockets disappears to over the years. You can reach your hand pretty far back between the decking fabric and inside back fabric.

11) The Outside Back

You’re almost done! Staple dust cover fabric over the outside back of the chair frame, the same way you did for the outside arms, and place batting over it. Staple the batting in place and fluff it over the staples. Next, take the remaining welting and staple it, raw edges facing inward, around the outside back of the chair. I stapled welting on the top and sides but not the bottom of the chair back because I wanted the bottom of the chair to look the same on all four sides.

How do you staple the outside back cover of the chair, you ask? You don’t. This is where you employ flexible metal tacking strip. It’s tricky to use and will definitely bite you, but magically works. Staple the metal tacking strip inside the welting, with claws poking outward at you, but in the center of the chair. You’re going to bend these claws toward the welting, grabbing the outside back of the upholstery fabric and enclosing the back of the chair. Bend the claws toward welting with your fingers, then pound completely closed with a rubber mallet.

After finagling the flexible metal tacking strip, the only part of chevron left to staple is the bottom. Work from the center to either side of the bottom of the chair frame like you have before.

 

12) The Dust Cover

¡Finalmente! You’re really almost finished! Carefully turning your chair upside down on a clean surface (you don’t want to get the fabric dirty), place dust cover fabric over the bottom of the chair. Tuck raw edges in and staple in place to keep critters out.

 

13) Reattach Chair Legs

Lastly, importantly, reattach your chair legs by screwing them in place through the dust cover fabric. Dust cover fabric is not super strong and easily tears. But that’s ok, because you need to have chair legs go through it. Once the legs are secure, turn your chair over, and sit in it. Revel in a job well done.

You can use these instructions as a supplement to a book about upholstery, such as Furniture Upholstery by Sunset Books. I also HIGHLY recommend taking an upholstery class at your local community college. Hands on experience with a teacher at an affordable price + whatever you spend on fabric and tools you’ll keep. Happy upholstering!

We love living in such a creative community (as we’ve said a million times). We learn so much from the makers around us…and sometimes we even get to share their talents and experience with you, our followers.

Today, I’m pleased to share with you the talents of Joshua and Mandy Blankenship, creators of Shop-Keep. Shop-Keep is a wonderful jack-of-all-trades in the creative scene. The Blankenships both source and craft all manner of creative goods. Whether it’s handmade paper cards or refinished vintage furniture, Shop-Keep is your one stop shop for something unique and wonderful.

Mandy has a particular knack for upholstery projects, and she has graciously shared with us the story of how she turned a frumpy old chair into an updated, reupholstered beauty. This is a long story/tutorial, but Mandy has done a great job simply explaining the involved steps of the reupholstering journey. I’ve always been fascinated with this process, so it’s great to have a detailed step-by-step.

So take it away, Mandy!

If you don’t like details, maybe reupholstery is not for you. This is not the blog post to tell you how to hot-glue fabric to your dining chairs. I am not that girl. I dream of making things–all kinds of things–and doing it the proper way, the way the professionals do.

When my husband and I starting collecting vintage furniture, we collected more than our fair share of chairs. Often wooden dining chairs, or aluminum Goodform and Steel Case office types; but we couldn’t turn down the occasional comfy side chair–envisioning a graphic, modern fabric in place of that dingy corduroy or yucky tweed. Around 30 chairs into our collection, Joshua and I decided it was finally time to sign up for the upholstery class at the local community college. It would cost more than $170 per chair to hire someone to redo them, so we figured it was money well spent even if we decided we hated the process.

The 8 week class turned into 18 weeks, attending extra classes once or twice a week to finish our little preciouses (caveat: we could have finished the chairs in MUCH less than 8 weeks if classes had met more often). Joshua became increasingly frustrated with the detailed parts of the process, but he discovered he’s exceptionally adept at tear-down (a tight grip comes in handy). I enjoyed it all but needed some extra help with staple-removing and de-nailing things. We’re a good match.

What follows is a rough overview of The Making of The Chevron Chair. Once upon a time it was The Comfortable But Aesthetically Needy Corduroy Chair. To create the Chevron Chair, I made some design decisions like removing the skirt to expose those lovely turned legs. You need basic sewing skills to reupholster furniture. An industrial walking-foot machine and upholstery staple gun with air-compressor are also really necessary. I’m not saying you can’t do this on a home sewing machine or with a manual staple gun, but your wits will be tested and your hands will be bruised if you go that route.

SUPPLIES

Claw tool: a forked-end tool used to remove tacks and staples
Hammer
Pliers
Masking tape
Rubber mallet (white is best, but you can cover a black one with fabric)/
Curved upholstery needles
Straight pins
Sewing needle (for basting)
Seam ripper
Flexible tape measure
Yardstick / straightedge
Spring twine: also called laidcord, a waxed jute twine used to tie springs together
Burlap
Fabric shears: sharp scissors used for cutting fabric only
Flexible metal tacking strip
Cardboard tacking strip
Tailor’s chalk
Dust mask
Goggles
Leather work gloves
Upholstery fabric (common yardage for different chairs)
*Foam
*Batting
Dust cover fabric
Cording
*Zipper
Upholstery weight thread

*Can be reused from old chair upholstery

1) Studying the Chair

This is an essential first step to reupholstering any piece of furniture. Most upholstered chairs have an inside back, an outside back, inside arms, outside arms, deck, lip, and some have wings, welting, and cushions. If you can’t identify where all these pieces are, you will not end up with a fully reupholstered chair, and that will be sad. Make a simple diagram of your chair labeling each part. Place masking tape on each section of your chair and label appropriately: inside left arm, outside left arm, inside right arm, outside right arm, etc. Label your chair, left and right, as you face it, not as if you were sitting in it. Do not skip this step, or you will be confused later on.

2) Tear-Down

Remove chair legs, and place your chair on a sturdy surface for the duration of the reupholstery project. Our chair stands were about 2 feet high and large enough to hold each person’s piece with a few inches to spare on each side. Deconstruct your chair with care and gusto, wearing a mask, goggles, and work gloves. Old dust, splinters, and pet hair fly during this phase. Remove staples and decorative nails completely, but do not rip or cut the old fabric. You need all the old fabric to use as a pattern for the new. Also save the batting and foam under the old fabric if possible. Throw away damaged, bug-infested, or smelly chair innards. A smoker’s chair stuffing will always smell like the smoker who nestled in it. Rip all the seams of the old fabric and separate the various pieces. Double-check to make sure each piece is labeled before you rip the seams. Consider using the <a href=”http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_irrigation“>neti pot</a> after a tear-down session.

3) Repair Springs, Webbing, and Frame

Some springs are zig-zaggy and others are classically coiled. Every coil is joined by spring twine to create a firm, bouncy base on which to rest your tush. The BEST chairs, we learned, have eight-way hand-tied coils. Our teacher could not say enough good things about eight-way hand-ties. If there is an upholstery hall-of-fame, I wonder if people reminisce about Sir So-And-So’s eight-way hand-ties like legends about Helen of Troy’s beauty or the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. I hope so.

Make sure your coils are properly tied together with spring twine, that frayed webbing is replaced with new, and that any defects on the wood frame of your chair have been dealt with. Now is the time to completely remove stubborn staples or hammer in broken ones, yank out unnecessary nails or pound ones that are loosely holding the frame together. Make the frame of your chair completely stable and ready to carry the weight of the most robust visiting relative. Once you’ve repaired all the essentials, lay burlap over bottom and back springs, tuck raw edges under, and staple in place.

 

4) DO NOT WASH YOUR NEW UPHOLSTERY FABRIC

Learn from my mistakes. I’m used to sewing quilts and garments, and pre-shrinking fabric is a must when you expect to launder anything regularly. Upholstery fabric, however, comes with a sort of protective coat on top, a sheen to repel moisture or food spills. You can, of course, choose a fabric that’s not strictly for upholstery, but even those come off the bolt with a finished look. Just remember, you are not going to launder your chair. You will spot-clean it. If you desperately want to pre-shrink the fabric, for goodness sake check the washing instructions for what you bought. Luckily washing the chevron fabric was no big deal, though completely unnecessary. Washing the turquoise fabric for Joshua’s chair was a big mistake, as you can see. Fabric.com has wonderful customer service and sent me new fabric at no cost.

 

5) The Old Upholstery Fabric Is Your Map

Lay out the old fabric on top of the new and use it as a pattern, tracing its shape onto the new fabric with chalk. Make sure that each peace of new fabric you cut faces the same direction, as light will reflect differently on upside-down fabric grain vs. right-side up fabric grain. Decide whether to “railroad” your fabric or leave it vertical, where the straight-of-grain runs vertical (parallel to selvedge edges) and the cross-grain is perpendicular to the straight of grain. Railroading fabric is turning the bolt sideways so that it runs left to right and will shift the motif completely. This works for some patterns and definitely not for others. If you’re reupholstering two chairs to match, make note of whether or not you railroad the fabric. You don’t want to end up with one vertical plaid and another horizontal plaid. Label each new fabric piece with masking tape to show which direction is up.

Look at the pattern motif of the new fabric, and plan where the pattern repeats will meet at the seams before you trace with chalk. Seam allowances are included in the old fabric piece after you rip out the seams. Notice if that allowance is 1/4 or 1/2 inch and take that into account when deciding where to place seams. My chevron fabric is made of a series of Vs, and I had to think about how those Vs flowed from section to section (from the lip of the chair to the front boxing of deck cushion to the top of deck cushion, etc.). If they can’t match perfectly, at least make it look purposeful. I chose to center the chevrons on the lip of the chair first and planned my way up the chair from that point. The top of the chair arms don’t match the inside back perfectly but are positioned in a pleasing way. The sides and back just continue the chevron pattern in a way that makes sense. Cut new fabric along traced chalk lines.

Welting, sometimes called piping on garments or smaller projects, is fabric sewn around a cord and used as decorative edging. The Chevron Chair has welting on the deck cushion, down the arms, and around the back of the chair. Fabric used for welting is often cut on the bias, but for my chair I cut 1 1/2 inch strips vertically down the chevron motif so the welting would look kind of like a candy cane. Measure the length of welting on the old fabric to decide how much you need for the new upholstery, or just measure parts on the frame where you think it would look good. Be generous in your measurements. I used less welting with the new fabric than the chair previously had, but I still needed some extra to sew it all together. Use chalk to trace 1 1/2 inch strips as long as you can on the new fabric, and cut along traced lines.

6) Batting Isn’t Just for Quilting

Batting is commonly thought of as the fluffy, scrumptious layer between the top and bottom of a quilt, but it’s a must for upholstery too. Every place your chair will be covered with fabric, it needs to be covered in foam and/or batting. Any upholstery fabric that rubs agains raw wood will tear over time and ruin all your hard work, plus it’s not comfy to sit on. Before fitting sewn fabric over top of chair arms, place batting over arm foam and raw edges of wood, staple it in place, and fluff batting over staples. Fluffing the batting makes sure that you won’t see any divots in the fabric after you place it on top of the batting. If your batting is smooth, your fabric will lay smoothly; if your batting is lumpy, your fabric will look lumpy.

 

To be continued…

Thank you so much to everyone who participated in our Best Craft Party Ever Giveaway. We’re so glad you’re all supportive of the event. It’s going to be a great night—an ultra-cool setting, dinner catered by Larkins, and meeting new friends while making awesomeness!

Unfortunately, however, we only have two tickets to giveaway this time.

So without much ado, we’re happy to announce that the winner of our giveaway is commenter #24, Candice! We’ll be in touch shortly on how to redeem your tickets.

Thanks again to everyone else! We’d still love to see you at The Best Craft Party Ever, so please reserve your ticket today!

We’re so thankful to have incredible sponsors that make our work possible. So today I want to tell you all about Spoonflower fabric. Founded in 2008 Spoonflower fabric is the world’s first internet based print-your-own fabric company. If you can imagine a fabric, then you can print it! Oh the possibilities! We in the craft world have been going nuts with it ever since.

Not only do we love Spoonflower for the amazing service they provide and the community of crafters they’ve built up, but also for their support of The Maker’s Summit this year! Spoonflower’s very own co-founder, Stephen Fraser, will be opening our conference as a keynote speaker. In many ways, he is the entrepreneur’s dream come true. Using his background in the tech industry (consulting for Internet start-ups and serving as marketing director for Lulu.com), Stephen created this custom fabric company and has been inspiring small businesses ever since.

At The Makers Summit you’ll see plenty of evidence of Spoonflower goodness including giveaways and tons of custom details that will make our conference even more unique. So don’t miss out on everything there is to gain from Spoonflower! Check out their website for amazing fabric and projects, or come to The Makers Summit and get inspired to create your own success story!

We’re so excited about the upcoming Makers Summit and even more so for The Best Craft Party Ever that we’re giving away 2 tickets to the evening event!

The party begins at 7:00 PM on February 2, and you don’t have to attend the conference to participate. The Craft Party is a separate event designed simply to celebrate the fun of making and meeting other makers. You also don’t have to be naturally crafty or artistically inclined to join us. We’ve designed the party so everyone—professional and newbie alike—can try their hand at something new.

So here’s what to expect:

Enjoy a full dinner and open bar provided by a local chef; Choose one of four crafty kits to work on while you create and mingle with experts and peers alike.

You’ll have the opportunity to learn to make one of the following:
Glass terrarium
Beeswax candles
Hand stitched leather journal
Paper wreath

And believe it or not we’re giving away two tickets to one lucky winner! This amazing evening can be all yours! Simply leave a comment below telling us who you would bring to The Best Craft Party Ever and why. One winner of two tickets will be chosen at random and announced next Thursday, January 17. Commenting will be open until then.

If you’d rather not take your chances, you can reserve your spot here.

We’ve had so much fun over the past few months planning The Makers Summit, and today we’re giving you a sneak peek into our after-party. Sponsored by MailChimp, we guarantee it will be The Best Craft Party Ever.

The party begins at 7:00 PM on February 2, and you don’t have to attend the conference to participate. The Craft Party is a separate event designed simply to celebrate the fun of making and meeting other makers. You also don’t have to be naturally crafty or artistically inclined to join us. We’ve designed the party so everyone—professional and newbie alike—can try their hand at something new.

 

So here’s what to expect:

Enjoy a full dinner and open bar provided by a local chef; Choose one of four crafty kits to work on while you create and mingle with experts and peers alike.

You’ll have the opportunity to learn to make one of the following:
Glass terrarium
Beeswax candles
Hand stitched leather journal
Paper wreath

As mentioned before, you don’t have to craft professionally to join the party. The kits include everything you need to take home a completed project. So this is a perfect time to either learn something new or simply try your hand at a craft you’ve always wanted to make.

Even though you can simply come to meet other creatives, we think this will make an ideal night out for couples or just a group of friends.

On top of all the crafting and eating, we’ll have screen print and letterpress stations set up where you can learn to print your own tee shirt and letterpress posters.

So please put The Best Craft Party Ever on your calendar. Tickets are $50 per person (separate from the conference)  and include a complete dinner, a craft kit, access to letterpress and screen printing,  plus the chance to make new friends who also love handmade.

Reserve your spot today!

We’re happy to be starting off 2013 on an exciting note. We’re less than a month away from The Makers Summit! We can’t even say how excited we are to meet everyone and listen to our various experts.

Stay tuned over the next few days! We’re especially excited to give some sneak peaks about The Best Craft Party Ever. It’s going to be epic!

We’ve had such an amazing year with Indie Craft Parade. We met amazing new artists at the September festival, topped our goal of attendees, added a Holiday Fair, and are in the midst of planning a new small business conference. We’ll be taking off the next week or so to get some much needed rest and time to start scheming for everything to come in 2013!

We’ll be back bright and early in the New Year full of new details about The Makers Summit.

See you then!